Test fit of bonnet/lamps before final battery box welding.

How do you tell if there is clearance when the bonnet is down and you can't see inside? An old trick. Place a pointed lump of plasticine on any likely high spots, close the bonnet, open it. See how much it squished. I need 3/8" clearance, this lump shows nearly 1" at this spot.

Clearance under battery box to gearbox.

Clearance under battery box to motor.

Clearance behind battery box to bulkhead, new brake line still to be clipped to bulkhead.

To reach the old fuseblock I had to remove the driver's seat and lie on my back looking under the dash... No fun. I'm rewiring the car, so I'll mount the fuseblock where the 12v battery used to be. Manufacturers take note ;-)

Cats cradle time..

With 5 battteries it may be wise to brace the center of that strut tower tie bar. Can't do any harm.

Bolted into the top rear gearbox mount.

Starting to make sense of all that wire.

It fits!!!! Perhaps I can fit a panel between the battery boxes to mount the contactor, 500A fuse and emergency cut off on. Hope so.

The 5K ohm pot box with the old throttle cable fits nicely here, with no sharp bend in the cable. Just got to make a clevis to join the cable to the lever.

Detail of the 5k potbox and auxillary return spring.

Front battery box with mounting plate for the 5k ohm 'potbox' attached. The triangular fillet is for a second 'turn off' spring to cut power/speed if the throttle cable breaks or the potbox return spring fails.

Front battery box showing the front mounting arms. This leaves easy access to the brake master cylinder, servo and proportioning valve.