Front battery box support bar in place. The original engine mount is used on the passenger side, moved forwards 3/4 of an inch. Another taken from a scrap car was used, somewhat modified to fit, on the driver side.

Detail of the small 2 battery box front support. Note the green Bondo! I couldn't jig it up to weld in situ so I mounted all the parts in place and filled the gap with two lumps of bondo. When it had set I could lift it out and weld it, certain that all the two pieces of angle were aligned correctly.

Siting between the two battery boxes, this suports the main 250A cutout in the rectangular hole, with cable pull emergency off on the flange. The 250A fuse will sit on the lower shelf.

Finished rear #4 battery box, this drops into the old spare wheel well, with the flanges supporting it.

The 12v auxilary battery ( old 12v lights, radio etc) will fit in between one set of flanges and the 132 to 12v DC to DC converter in the other.

The convertibles (Pontiac Firefly and Geo Metro)don't use solid front rotors, they are double wall and vented, 9" diam. I didn't know that and bought standard firefly ones first, it was only when the wheels came off I saw the difference.

Calipers are off, two bolts into threaded holes in the rotors then are used to press the rotor off the hub.

Here is the box the right rotors came in. Note part number!

All together now.. Time to do the rear drums next..

I've told that the rear wheels of similar vintage Suzuki Swift GT and Swift GTI cars had rotors on the rear. If I get the knuckles complete with rotors etc it is aparently a direct swap, so next time I'm in Vancouver I'm going to browse the scrappies and see if I can bag a set. And thus fit discs to the rear. With all the weight of batteries it seems like a good idea.

Heatsink goo on the Curtis before bolting it to the ali plate.

Heatsink goo on the Curtis before bolting it to the ali plate.

That heatsink goo is sticky!

Curtis Controller and heatsink (I bought a large heatsink on ebay for $30 and cut a slice off) Mounted on 1/4 inch ali plate, which then mounts to the massive battey box strut.

Electrical inlet mounting bracket welded and painted.

Electrical inlet mounting bracket in place.

The shunt... This is in series with the battery leads, it is rated for 500 A and the amperage is read by measuring the voltage drop across it. The ratio of current to voltage drop is: 500 amps = 50mv

The on off switch. This Albright SW200-9 is a very big relay with 'magnetic blowout' to extinguish the plasma spark. ('magnetic blowout' is not used on AC switches where any spark is extingished automatically as the voltage & current drop to Nil 120 times a second). According to the Cafe Electric (Zilla) web site 'the magnetic blowouts give the contactor power terminals polarity. For proper operation the side of the contactor with the + label should be connected toward the most positive side of the high voltage pack.'

I haven't seen this advice anywhere else, not even in the Albright spec sheet.

The 12v coil is fed from the ignition switch. There will also be some safety devices including a 'inertia' switch and a 'charging cord still plugged in' switch in series with the feed to it.

Albright SW-200 Spec Sheet.