Pontiac Firefly AKA 'The Electrafly' conversion from ICE to 132V DC Electric
Colin J McCubbin.© 2008/2018 ( Click on any thumbnail to enlarge it. )
<< Previous page   1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10   Next page >>

The convertibles (Pontiac Firefly and Geo Metro)don't use solid front rotors, they are double wall and vented, 9" diam. I didn't know that and bought standard firefly ones first, it was only when the wheels came off I saw the difference.

Calipers are off, two bolts into threaded holes in the rotors then are used to press the rotor off the hub.

Here is the box the right rotors came in. Note part number!

Here are the boxes the left and right calipers came in. Note part numbers!

All together now.. Time to do the rear drums next..

I've told that the rear wheels of similar vintage Suzuki Swift GT and Swift GTI cars had rotors on the rear. If I get the knuckles complete with rotors etc it is aparently a direct swap, so next time I'm in Vancouver I'm going to browse the scrappies and see if I can bag a set. And thus fit discs to the rear. With all the weight of batteries it seems like a good idea.

Heatsink goo on the Curtis before bolting it to the ali plate.

Heatsink goo on the Curtis before bolting it to the ali plate.

That heatsink goo is sticky!

Curtis Controller and heatsink (I bought a large heatsink on ebay for $30 and cut a slice off) Mounted on 1/4 inch ali plate, which then mounts to the massive battey box strut.


That heatsink goo is sticky!

Rather than mount my electrical inlet in the old filler pipe hole,(which would: A. Have the cable dangling in the the wheel arch, and B. Have the incoming cable going 'up') I made up this arangement. The plate will block that hole and the angled plate will have the inlet in it.Note the saw kerfs used to make a jig for welding.

Electrical inlet mounting bracket welded and painted.

Electrical inlet mounting bracket in place.

Modified dash cluster.

Fuel gauge and water temp gauge replaced with Ammeter and Voltmeter for 12v accessory system.

Modified dash cluster.

Since the 2" holes for the ammeter and voltmeter cut away part of the flexible printed circuit sockets, I soldered wires directly to the socket pads, and covered each with shrink fit insulation.

Front batteries and boxes in place!

Final test fit of batteries, I ran out of 2/0 cable (and had to give the borrowed hydraulic crimper back) I hope to borrow the crimper again this weekend and finish and run the motor this weekend!

The shunt... This is in series with the battery leads, it is rated for 500 A and the amperage is read by measuring the voltage drop across it. The ratio of current to voltage drop is: 500 amps = 50mv

The on off switch. This Albright SW200-9 is a very big relay with 'magnetic blowout' to extinguish the plasma spark. ('magnetic blowout' is not used on AC switches where any spark is extingished automatically as the voltage & current drop to Nil 120 times a second). According to the Cafe Electric (Zilla) web site 'the magnetic blowouts give the contactor power terminals polarity. For proper operation the side of the contactor with the + label should be connected toward the most positive side of the high voltage pack.'

I haven't seen this advice anywhere else, not even in the Albright spec sheet.

The 12v coil is fed from the ignition switch. There will also be some safety devices including a 'inertia' switch and a 'charging cord still plugged in' switch in series with the feed to it.

Albright SW-200 Spec Sheet.

Albright SW-200 Dimension Sheet.
<< Previous page   1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10   Next page >>
[ This free database less photogallery, written in php can be downloaded from sfpg 3.6.0 - sye.dk ]